Textile Traditions Quilt Shop & Dry Goods

Working with Thread

Buying thread involves more than just matching color--the fiber content, twist, ply and weight must match your fabric and the type of sewing you plan to do. Our primer will guide you in selecting the perfect thread for your project.

Thread Glossary

Monofilaments are made of a single, continuous fiber, usually polyester or nylon. Sometimes called "invisible" thread, these threads are opaque. These threads are heat sensitive and can melt if ironed or used in a very hot clothes dryer.

Spun Threads make up the bulk of thread available today. Most are made with 2 or 3 plys (that means the number of yarns twisted together to make the thread). These threads come in a variety of fibers, see the table below for attributes. These threads are slightly fuzzy, reducting the friction on the thread when passing through the machine guides.

Weight indicates how thick/strong a thread is. Most quilting thread is 50 weight. Remember that the lower the number, the thicker the thread. Hence, a 60 weight thread is thinner than 40 wieght.

Ply indicates how many "yarns" are twisted together to make the thread. Generally, more plys means more strength. Most threads feature 2 or 3 plys.

Weight/Ply is how most threads are identified. The most commonly used machine sewing thread is 50/2 thread, meaning the thread is 50 weight and 2 ply. Machine quilting threads are 50/3 or 40/3.

Freshness counts with thread. The same factors that damage old textiles (heat, light, atmosphere, moisture) will damage any thread over time. Old thread will decompose and is prone to breakage. If it's old, toss it out.

Thread Fiber Types

Thread Breakage Solutions

What could possibly be more frustrating that breaking threads? There can be many causes for this aggravating condition, see if one of the tips below can fix your problem:

• #1solution - Use fresh, high quality thread. It may cost more, but if it saves time by reducing broken threads, its worth it, right? Check threads for slubs and variations in thickness, as these can cause breakage.
• Is your machine threaded correctly? Check your owner's manual to be sure you are using the right "path" for your thread and are not skipping any guides.
• Are you using the right needle for the job? A needle eye too small for the thread will cause improper tension and wear. Too large and the needle makes a bigger hole than the thread can fill. Dull needles cause thread to break-change them frequently for best performance
• Tension set properly? Too tight and thread breaks, too loose and it bunches.
• Match thread strength/size to the job. Fine threads for silk and thin cottons, heavier thread for demin & layered fabrics.
• What condition are your bobbins in? A bobbin with rust, burrs or pits will cause breakage. Plastic bobbins are more prone to damage than metal bobbins, so check them closely. Get rid of those old bobbins!

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