Textile Traditions Quilt Shop & Dry Goods

Working with Fabric

By Fanny Sue Rhodes

Quilts are a labor of love, to be sure your quilted work will be cherished for generations, be sure to use the best quality 100% cotton fabric you can find. Cotton is the preferred fiber of quilters because of minimal distortions, ease of seaming and it's ability to press crisply and hold pressed edges.

Fabric is generally marketed on a bolt. The bolt is the cardboard (originally wood, as in a "shingle bolt") upon which the fabric is wound for transportation and marketing. Standard measurements for fabric on bolts is 44 to 45 inches wide, most bolts are wound with 15 yards of fabric. Thus, one yard of fabric generally measures 36 inches by 45 inches.

Each piece of fabric has a variety of "stretch" built into it by the weaving process. Using these attributes for best results will mean the difference between a quilt that pieces well and one that is misshapen or "bunchy".

Play it Straight for strength!

Lengthwise Grain (aka straight grain, aka Warp Threads) refers to those threads running longwise on the bolt. When fabric is woven, the strongest threads are the warp threads--those threads that run long-ways on the fabric. These threads are very strong to support the web while weaving and stretch very little.

It is best to cut borders and sashings on the Straight of Grain for best accuracy due to minimized stretch. Garments are cut so that the length of the garment (such as a dress) will fall on the straight of grain. This keeps garments from stretching out and becoming longer than wanted.

Cross Grain for more give

Cross Grain (weft threads) refers to those threads running across the width of fabric. These weft threads, due to the nature of the weaving process, have a bit of stretch or give to them.

These are good to use for block units, as the stretch can be manipulated to make uneven cuts match up. Garments are cut with the cross grain going across the width of the item, so that there is a little "give" or stretch to garments when you move or bend. Good also for straight bindings where only a bit of give is needed.

Both cross grain and lengthwise grain are called "straight grain" or "straight of grain" as these directions coincide with the straight

Bias for elasticity

True Bias refers to a 45 degree angle across the threads, and provides the most stretch, or "give", on the fabric. In quilting, any cut of fabric at any angle across the threads is referred to as "bias".

Bindings are cut on the bias to make curved or shaped edges. Garments (such as skirts or dresses) are cut on the bias to give them a nice drape that clings to the body.

The Fold line marks the center of the fabric longwise. This fold is very stiff due to sizing in the fabric and pressure on the fold when it is wound onto the bolt. You will need a steam iron to relax this crease.

The Selvages are the woven ends of the long edges of the fabric. Color registers and manufacturer information is often printed on the selvages. Selvages are tightly woven to prevent raveling. Due to the tight weave, the selvages may shrink more than the bulk of the fabric when washed. Cut off the selvages before sewing to prevent unsightly gathering or bunching.

Why cut on the Lengthwise Grain? Let me count the reasons...

  1. It is interesting to note that most quilt teachers still instruct students to cut strips on the cross grain. While this can save money, as less fabric may be required, this can be detrimental to the appearance and workmanship of your quilt. The stretch of cross grain fabric does not lend itself to accurate seams, and some shifting/stretching of fabric will occur when sewing. I cut all borders and sashings on the straight grain for better piecing performance.
  2. Also remember that fabrics are printed linearly (longwise). This means that you will almost never be able to match a printed pattern by cutting on the cross grain. Cutting on the straight grain means you will have a perfect match each time.
  3. Stripes generally run the length of the fabric. By cutting striped borders on the straight grain, you can give the appearance of pieced borders--let the fabric stripes do the work for you! Be sure to mitre corners for best appearance.
  4. This same trick with stripes works for sashings, giving the appearance of pieced fabric sashing.

Try it out yourself!

What if there is no selvage edge on your piece of fabric, how do you tell the cross grain from the straight grain? What if you have a scrap from your stash with not edges for reference. Use a fat quarter or square section of fabric cut on the grain and try the following experiment:.

  1. Tug on the fabric top to bottom, then side to side. You should notice that one direction will stretch slightly less than the other. The most stable direction will be the straight grain, the cross grain will have more "give".
  2. Now pull on the square of fabric from corner to opposite corner (the bias). You will notice a lot of stretch--if you pull too hard it may become permanently distorted.

To prewash, or not to prewash?

This is the questions that gets the experts all fired up. As there are proponents of both, each quoting multiple reasons for each, we shall assume it is a matter of opinion. That said, here is my opinion on the deba

Whenever possible-PREWASH fabrics intended for quilts or clothing. My reasons:

  1. Colorfastness. If a color is not colorfast and bleeds, better to discover this in the first wash that later, after hundreds of hours have been invested in a quilt. Some fabrics, particularly dark colored batiks, will bleed color in the first wash. Just assume they will bleed and prewash them as a habit.
  2. Straighter grain. Washing will relax the woven threads and hopefully return them to a straight grain. Much twisting and pulling of fabric occurs during the weaving and dying process. A straight grain means that pieces will lay flat, with not bunching or "wonky" look.
  3. Shrinkage. Most cotton fabrics will shrink 3% to 5%. If you mix pre-washed and non-washed fabrics in a quilt or garment, it may look awful after washing causes shrinkage.
  4. Colorfastness.

How to prewash fabric

  1. Separate fabrics by color. Always wash whites separately. Same with dark colors, particularly batiks!
  2. Unfold the fabric to a single layer
  3. Machine or hand wash in warm or tepid water. Rinse until water runs clear.
  4. Machine or line dry.
  5. Iron with steam, lining up the cross grains to match at selvages.

Control bleeding! First aid for batiks and other fabrics prone to bleeding.

There are some great products to aid you in preparing fabrics for sewing. Most are designed to help fix emergencies--quilts that bleed after construction. To be safe, if a fabric bleeds, just don't use it in a quilt. If you really must use it, try a few of the "fixes" below.

Some batiks seems prone to bleeding and you may need to apply some Synthapol to control it. Synthrapol is a concentrated surfactant used commercially to rinse excess dyes from fabrics. Now quilters can purchase this product to treat fabrics, particularly batiks that may not have been rinsed adequately. Follow package directions and rinse thoroughly.

Retayne is a product that helps to set dyes. When you are confident that excess dye has been removed with Synthapol, give the fabric a final treatment with retayne to prevent further bleeding.

Don't get these products mixed up! A quilter recently had a batik quilt, and the dark blue patches were bleeding significantly. She mistakenly treated the quilt with retayne first, effectively setting the stains permanently into her quilt. A better course would have been to treat with synthapol in hopes the stains from the excess dye could be rinsed away.

Back to Resources Page